Mod Voltage Test Setup
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  1. #1

    Mod Voltage Test Setup

    An Astron power supply as the main power source and connected it to a 1 ohm 100W resistor for one test and 2 1 ohm resistors in parallel for a .5 ohm test. Voltage reading was taken at the mod.

    One problem I ran into was the regulator would not output over 6 amps at 3.7 volts into a .5 ohm load. It needed to be at a higher voltage, so I used 7 volts to output 13 amps of current through the mod. This is will come out to a load of about .3 ohms at 3.7 volts.

    The testing is to isolate the mod itself and to get actual voltage drop and current flow and not be influenced by atomizer and battery resistance.

    Note that firing the device with varied pressure, pushing the button to the side when firing, etc., causes voltage variations. Some a lot worse than others. The mod is fired multiple times and the most consistent voltage is recorded.














    VOLTAGE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLATED AND PLAIN CONTACT PINS
    Control device used was a Brass Nemesis because of its consistent voltage readings. Everything was used in the same manner with the exception of the different top and bottom contact. The brass contact originated from a plated clone contact with the silver plating stripped off.
    The Nemesis silver plated contact was used as the control voltage as that had the lowest voltage drop.

    Low current test:
    Silver Plated brass (control) - 0 volts
    Brass +0.004
    Copper 0
    Clone silver plated brass +0.004

    High Current Test:
    Silver Plated Brass (control) 0 volts
    Brass +0.006
    Copper -0.001 (better than silver plated brass, but .001 could be human error
    Clone Plated contacts +0.003



    I am now using a new method of testing batteries. The load is still a fixed .5 and 1 ohm power resistor, but the voltage is logged over a set time period.
    Also the internal resistance of the battery is tested.
    Again, these tests are subjective. Battery age, condition, batch lots, etc., can all vary in test results, plus multiple batteries of the same make and model are not tested to check for consistency. If a test value appears to be erroneous, it is retested or another battery is used.



    Last edited by jkuro; 04-06-2014 at 01:02 PM. Reason: New battery test

  2. #2
    CaliVaper Elite pokerplayer's Avatar
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  3. #3
    heheh I love it!!!

    I'm guessing the issue with the buttons is what I have suspected all along... they are all inconsistent Button pressure was sure to play a roll, and I would guess that the angle of the application of the pressure has an effect as well.

    I would also assume at higher current levels, the current is jumping between the hot spring and where the button slides through the bodies as far as paths of transmission.

    Going to have to play with your numbers a bit but it doesn't look like your nemmy came out on top.... interesting

  4. #4
    Yes, the contact area between the button and body can show issues. In the case of the Atomo, if I held the button to the side, the numbers were slightly better. In the case of he BearBrass Mods, the switch contact appears to be nothing but a stainless slotted round headed screw. I cheated alittle and flattened it to create a better contact patch.
    I fired the mods 7 times or more to check for consistency. Some are not very stable.

  5. #5
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    [MENTION=56]jkuro[/MENTION] thank you for doing this test. Most appreciated. That Nemesis is a solid performer.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by jkuro View Post
    Yes, the contact area between the button and body can show issues. In the case of the Atomo, if I held the button to the side, the numbers were slightly better. In the case of he BearBrass Mods, the switch contact appears to be nothing but a stainless slotted round headed screw. I cheated alittle and flattened it to create a better contact patch.
    I fired the mods 7 times or more to check for consistency. Some are not very stable.
    This is a pet peeve I have with my Nzonic. If you are familiar with the design, due to the use of magnets vs. a spring. the only path for current flow is at the point where the button slides through the body. That said, I took a "auto center punch" and put 2 dots down one side of the shaft. This deformed the metal a lil and added some tension in the hole, but once it was done hits way better now according to my lung dyno. I wish I could fit a d/c motor brush and a spring in there to place a more consistent side load on the pin

    Now if you don't mind me asking, what mods were inconsistent?

  7. #7
    The chi clone, and Bear Brass Ti were the most inconsistent.
    The Atomo was also all over the place, but if the sides of the switch were scotchbrited it will improve alot.
    The Nemmy and geobukseon were rock solid. The Sig 8w also was good despite the sloppy switch, but I had modified it.

    Sorry, I might add that the Geobukseon is the all brass model.
    Last edited by jkuro; 09-03-2013 at 06:31 PM.

  8. #8
    LOL @ jkuro, this is starting to feel like performance parts development

    Looking at my Ching You, the spring looks pretty thin and possibly plated. In most mods, the spring is the only form of positive contact between the button and body. That said, I want the heavier gauge spring with more coils to try to maintain the original amount of button pressure reduce the resistance!!!

    I wonder when we will see one where the button has a "bullet/banana connector" type interface with the body

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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